Garden And Gardener

Everything for the Gardener and their Garden

Archive for the 'allotment' Category

Slug Killer – nemotodes

Friday, March 12th, 2010

Nemotodes kill slugs

Nemotodes kill slugs

Nemaslug Nematodes: Slug Killer
All vegetable gardeners know that the slug is one of the worst enemies in the garden. You can try all the beer traps you like, the gravel, and the copper tape but the slugs will still get to the plants and munch away at your newly planted seedlings.

What you need is something really effective like nematodes. Nematodes are microscopic organisms that kill slugs above and below ground. They are completely harmless to all garden wildlife as well as pets and children. They make your garden safe to as she won’t need to use slug pellets, so this is less chance of you poisoning your soil.

It’s perfectly safe to use on crops you’re going to wait. You should apply it just once every six weeks as this is how long the protection masts. It isn’t washed away by rain, but it does need the sort to be warm enough. You can order it now and they will send it out when the weather is warm and warm enough.
This pack can treat up to 40 m². There are also other packs designed to treat for other pests such as onion fly, caterpillars, directs, moths, carrot root fly, cabbage root fly and many other things. If you grow vegetables, then you know just how destructive these pests complete your crop. By investing just a small amount of money in the Nemesys products you have a simple pest control solution.

Growing onions

Friday, March 12th, 2010

Things you should know about growing onions. Onions are mostly grown from onion sets. That is onions that have started to grow still kind little bulbs. They can be heat-treated which discourages them from bolting. You can grow onions from seed, and some varieties have only grown from seed, that a spring onions usually. Lots of different types of onions but there are a few names that come up time and time again as being good growers.

Onions will grow in most areas in your garden, they’re happy in most soils especially if you’re adding in the first flights to keep them happy. They prefer good drainage, and the rich soft soil.

When you plant them, you plant the sets so they are just below the surface of the soil and only a tiny bit the onion bulb shows. This bit is very inviting to birds, who want to investigate and pull out the onion sets. It’s best to check that they were all covered up still on a vacant basis until they have started growing among the birds can’t pull them out. You can of course use netting to keep the birds away from them, or even use a cloche. Don’t plant them when it’s really wet, but plant them as early as possible so they get a good long growing season. You could also start them off in some potting soil in doors, this encourages them to have a good root system.



Spacing is something you need to watch carefully. You really do want to be able to home or out the onions using a hoe rather than having to hand weed. If you plant the onions too close together, then they are also competing more for water and nutrients and may not grow as big as they should. You might find it useful to use and marker when you are planting them to ensure that they are equally spaced.

They will need regular weeding throughout the growing season, as well as regular feeding. Because of the upright nature of the leaves, this means that they don’t suppress any weeds on the ground around them like other plants mark.
Onions are ready when they leave starts yellowing dieback, let this happen naturally rather than bending the leads over to speed it up. When you harvest them, if it’s dry warm and sunny, then you can just put a fork under them to lift the roots and break these, and leave the onions out in the sunshine a day or two. Those onions with a thick neck needs using first as they do not store as well. Allow the onions to dry for a couple of weeks in a well separated area, a wire tray or an area spread with newspaper will be good for this. As they dry you can push dirt and excess skin off them, do not remove the golden skin as this will protect the onion. You can learn to string them together so you can hang them up somewhere, or you can store them in an onion now. You need to make sure they are completely dry before storing, any damp leaves on the plants will cause them to rot. The onions will last 3 to 6 months, but in good conditions they may last longer.

If you’re onions rot in the ground, then this could be onion neck rot. Onions can also be affected by fungal growths, onion flies and onion thrips.

By buying from reputable sellers and not growing onions in the same spot from more than two years at a time, you should avoid some of these pests.

Starting to grow vegetables from seeds

Tuesday, February 23rd, 2010

This is just a few thoughts on what I learnt last year from our first year on the allotment. The main thing I learned was slugs really will eat everything you put in. In fact let that be the main lesson of this article. The slugs and to a minor degree other pests, are the enemy of the gardener. The domain forced off having allotment is a constant battle between you and the slugs. You grow plants in pots to stop the slugs eating the seedlings as soon as they come up, and the slugs eat them as soon as she put in the ground. If you sow directly into the ground the slugs will just eat a lot. That’s not true actually I did have several rows of beetroot, or, and my rats tail radishes came up really well. The parsnips came up quite well to, the carrot is not so good. But I did notice that everyone our screw their carrots in containers up on a shelf somewhere or on top of a compost heap.

The peas and beans needed to be grown in pots. Slugs just love beans and even when they were planted out in pots and quite big plants the wind got them. Although they survived enough to give me quite a lot of beans in fact half a freezer full, I did feel that the should’ve been an easier way of stopping the slugs from getting them. I’m not quite sure what that is though.
I did use the slugs pellets, I tried a couple of brands.. But the slugs seemed to quite like both.

I do know however that seeds need a really fine seedbed if you planting them directly out into the ground. That means plenty of raking to make the soil very fine. I suppose for plants that don’t mind being disturbed, a pot is probably the best way to start them off. If you get those trays where you stand the pots in, then it is easy to move them about in the greenhouse or in a cold frame. Just try to manage a large number of pots moose would be a nightmare.

Someone on the allotment had started off a lot of seeds for me, which I found very useful book I haven’t given enough thought about what I wanted to to be growing. I ended up with some cabbages, when I really published of grown red cabbages. However we live and learn. I was also given a margarine tub filled with leek seedlings. These grew really well into leeks and I was very pleased with them.

I also like to have another go at growing butternut squash. I really like the taste of butternut squash, but apparently not as much as the slugs like the leaves. They were completely by the slugs. Although I did have one plant which flowered these never lasted and I never produced any squashes.

We really did enjoy growing tomatoes and will be doing this again for sure. The taste of freshly picked tomatoes is just something out. And although they take a lot of effort looking after and watering I think the taste is justified. I can barely stand to eat supermarket tomatoes.

It is a lot of work with the allotment, I’m sure you could do quite a lot in a small garden if you tried. You just have to be imaginative space, and decide what you want to grow. I’d very much like damson tree at home, although I think it will take up quite a large bit of garden stop I’ve just started on a jar of jam that I made from damsons grown on my allotment and it is utterly delicious.

Topsoil voucher for fruit and vegetables

Thursday, February 18th, 2010

10% discount on Vegetable & Fruit Topsoil at Rolawn Direct.

The code is vegtopsoil110 and is valid until 16/3/2010.

Rolawn Vegetable & Fruit Topsoil is a fertile, organic rich, friable topsoil. It is a consistent blend of topsoil derived from prime arable land and a consistent organic matter, which ensures consistent results.

It is available in bulk bags containing approximately 1m3 for convenient home delivery nationwide. Delivery can be free too – put in your postcode to find out when your free delivery dates are.

If your allotment society still has a ban on manure due to the pesticide problems of a couple of years ago, then you should really consider buying some of this great quality topsoil. This topsoil doesn’t contain any manure, but does have lots of organic matter in that is safe for your plants and will include great growth.

The discount is for 10%, and free delivery is also available. Whether you are on allotment gardener or a home garden you will find one bag of this stuff will make a huge difference to the amount of crop you get from your garden. It is also more pleasant to handle them farmyard manure.
Vegetable & Fruit Topsoil at Rolawn Direct.

The code is vegtopsoil110 and is valid until 16/3/2010.

More composting advice

Monday, February 15th, 2010

List of things you can compost.

Lawn clippings, hedge cuttings, weeds, lawn edgings, old fruit and vegetables, vegetable peelings, potato peelings, old bedding plants, twigs, shredded newspaper and cardboard, nettles, raked leaves, almost any green plant material you might find in your garden.

List of things you cannot compost.

Meat, bones, animal mess, cat litter, dead animals, large branches, cooked food at anything that won’t break down easily.

Can you compost raspberry canes? You could certainly use them to make a base for your compost pot, they are quite woody and tough though some may need a lot of time to break down.

Can you compost potato haulms? You can as long as they do not having disease.

Can I compost cat Litter made from sawdust? If you’re going to have a very efficient compost heap that gets hot then you probably could, for most people you probably shouldn’t. You certainly shouldn’t put any animal waste on from pets that have been treated with medicines such as worming tablets.

Can I put old newspaper on my compost heap? You can, but don’t the one in large amounts, you might want to shred it, or soak it to make sure it gets the really damp.

Do I have to turn my compost heap? No! You don’t have to, but when you come to use the compost heap you will find that some of it hasn’t got it down so you should put this aside for your next compost bin.

Do I need more than one compost bin? If you have room for more than one, it’s the next one way of creating a composting system. You can fill one bed and leave it much too slowly for the other. When you’ve let one pile compost decompose you can use the compost and put the bad compost in the other pile.

It takes me a long time for the compost bin, is this a problem? No, you will just take longer to make compost. If you have a small garden, or only make a very small amount of waste, then you might consider a word tree as this is a more efficient option for small quantities of household vegetable waste.

I have a large lawn, I end up with a huge pile of lawn clippings, will be rot down into compost? It will do, even if you just put in a huge pile and leave it. It will probably go through quite slimy revolting stage first, but if you have a large garden leave in a far corner and stop worrying about it. It might take a couple of years to fully compost, but it will become home to lots of worms who break down the grass. One grass cuttings compost heap that I’ve seen hacks the largest worms I’ve ever seen!

Grow your own Rhubarb

Monday, February 15th, 2010

Rhubarb

Rhubarb

rhubarb from Suttons
Growing rhubarb is relatively easy. You have to prepare a bed for it because it will stay there long time. You should dig the bed well incorporating lots of well rotted compost or manure. Plant the rhubarb spaced as the instructions state. Rhubarb will grow year after year and the plants will spread out, you will eventually need to thin out the plants. You should also apply plenty of well rotted manure or compost each year. Rhubarb is relatively easy, takes no particular attention. And you will be picking it for years to come. Most plants require you to let them get established first, which might mean no sticks for the first year, and only one or two sticks from each plant the next year. But after that you should be good to go.

Buy these rhubarb collections from Suttons
The Suttons Rhubarb Tasters Collection – 3 delicious varieties, £9.95.
Right now Rhubarb is incredibly popular in British homes and kitchens.
Rhubarb is versatile – you can use it to make puddings, jams and even as an accompaniment to meat and fish dishes. But it is difficult to find in shops.
Easy to grow – Rhubarb is incredibly easy to grow. Once established it comes up year after year with little attention. Putting your rhubarb at the back of a border provides decorative foliage too.
The Rhubarb Tasters Collection – At Suttons we have put together a special Rhubarb Tasters Collection with our three most popular varieties:
Timperley (Early) (picture 1) – Capable of production from February right through to October. Delicious, tart flavour.
Suttons Seedless (picture 2) – A good later variety, known for good yield and flavour.
Victoria (picture 3) – A good all round variety, freezes very well so you can have Rhubarb all year round.
Buy two collections get one FREE! Each Rhubarb Tasters Collection consists of one plant of each variety for £9.95. However buy two collections and we will send you one free – SAVE £9.95. (Exact despatch time is subject to weather conditions as rhubarb can not be sent in freezing conditions.)

Composting

Monday, February 15th, 2010

Making compost is something that every gardener should do. A compost bin can be made from old wooden pallets fits together, or be a brand-new plastic one bought through some of the many discounted schemes local authorities run. Contact local council to see if they were a discount scheme on compost bins.

Or you can buy one online from Suttons – Compost bins at Suttons

Where should you put your compost bin? It should go somewhere where you don’t mind visiting every day with vegetable peelings from the kitchen. If it’s too far away from the kitchen then you’re just not bother using it. It shouldn’t be to close though because it can get bit whiffy if things go wrong.
What can you compost? You can compost almost all the green matter from your garden. There are arguments for and against putting in damaged plants that have infection. If you run your compost bin hot enough, then it should destroy any problem material, but most small compost bins won’t do this. For most small gardens the sensible advice be to throw away disease plant material. For those with bigger garden it should be okay to put things in the summer should build in a big stack and it gets hot enough to destroy things.

You can compost all your lawn cuttings, you could add shredding is of newspaper and cardboard, you can add other plant material like stems and prunings, and you can add lots of vegetable kitchen waste. You shouldn’t put meat or bones in the compost, as these may attract rats who will then set up home within your compost bin.

If you add too much of one type of material, then your compost bin won’t work as well. In a perfect world you would collect different types of material and then built a compost heap in layers. For most people this is impractical and just throwing everything in as it arrives is the best way to deal with things. You might then need to turn the compost over at least once before it’s ready.

Your compost bin can be in the shade, after all the Sunni areas in your garden at best to serve the plants you want to grow. A little prevent it getting to where in rainy weather, although some liquid is required for good composting. Some gardeners believe that adding urine to your compost heap speeds up the process. One TV gardener who is no longer with us, claimed to do this!

Older more woody material is slower to rot. If you have a garden shredder, then shredding this type of material before adding it to your compost heap is a great idea. It will speed up the decomposition and create great compost quickly.

Some plants are supposed to be great for activating compost. Nettles are supposed to be a great plan to put your compost bin. Just wear gloves when picking them. You should avoid putting in plants with thick roots like dandelions. It’s probably best to avoid putting Dandelion heads in as well as they will go to seed and then you’re just creating a perfect environment for them to replicate.

As long as you avoid taproot weeds and flowering heads of weeds you should produce good compost. Sometimes there will be bits that don’t decompose straightaway, safety is for your next heap. You will be amazed as the how much grass cuttings compost down quickly in summer. This is probably a good job as the lawn constantly needs mowing all summer long.

Potatoes at Suttons

Monday, February 15th, 2010

Potatoes at Suttons
Potatoes are fun to grow and can be grown even in a small garden. For an allotment or large garden you can try lots of different types and grow some really delicious spuds! The joy of digging up your own new potatoes and getting them into a pot very quickly will show you the advantages of growing them yourself!

Time to decide what potatoes you’ll be growing this year!
Suttons Patio Potato Starter Kit

Speciality Salad & New Potato Collection
£12.95
Buy Both Salad & New Potato Collection and Mashed & Baked Potatoes Collection and Save £5.95

For the freshest potatoes of the year, why not try our collection of four different varieties that are sure to please? Charlotte – The classic salad potato, Rocket – Earliest to crop, Vanessa – One of the very few pink skinned earlies and Nicola – Excellent in salads or sautéed. All taste delicious with a knob of butter or with freshly chopped mint or chives.

Delivered as 1 kg tubers of Charlotte, Nicola, Rocket and Vanessa
Code: 228360

Buy Both Salad & New Potato Collection and Mashed & Baked Potatoes Collection and Save £5.95
Code: 228385

Mashed & Baked Potatoes Collection
£12.95
Buy Both Salad & New Potato Collection and Mashed & Baked Potatoes Collection and Save £5.95

Whether you prefer perfect creamy mash or crisp baked potatoes, these varieties all chosen for their heavy crops will feed the family for months! King Edward – unsurpassed for roasting, Rooster – An excellent all-round potato, Picasso – Easy to grow with good disease resistance and Cara – King of the Bakers.

Delivered as 1 kg tubers of King Edwards, Rooster, Picasso and Cara
Code: 228364

Buy Both Salad & New Potato Collection and Mashed & Baked Potatoes Collection and Save £5.95
Code: 228385

Super Healthy Potato – Mayan Twilight – with Growing Pouches
£9.95
Grow Your Own Peruvian Gold!
This variety boils in half the time of a normal potato.

Mayan Twilight is a new super healthy variety combining the productivity of the modern potato with the highly nutritious and buttery texture of the traditional Peruvian potato. A single portion of this superb potato contains more vitamin C than an apple and more fibre than a bowl of bran flakes! It boils in half the time of a normal potato and because of its natural creamy flavour requires less butter, so overall it’s a delicious and healthy option.

Delivered as 3 Growing Pouches and 12 tubers of Mayan Twilight
Code: 228368
Bargain Patio Potato Growing Kit
Only £14.95!
HARVEST YOUR POTATOES IN LESS THAN 7 WEEKS!

Potato planters are the easy way to grow potatoes. In fact each planter is capable of producing up to 9lbs of healthy potatoes. These sturdy soft sided bags are ideal for growing a delicious crop of potatoes on the patio. With three potato varieties (Swift, Vivaldi and Charlotte) especially chosen from our patio growing potato trials for their high yields of delicious tasting new potatoes, we are certain that you will get a fantastic crop. Even better… why not re-use the planters later in the year for tomatoes or carrots or grow a second crop of potatoes in Autumn!

Delivered as 3 Potato Planters + 5 tubers of Swift (1st early), Vivaldi (2nd early) and Charlotte (Salad)
Code: 210160

Refill Potato Kit
£4.95
Just need the seed potato tubers?

If you already have the containers then all you need is our refill pack to plant them up again – 5 tubers each of:
Rocket – Earliest to crop…
Vivaldi – The super low calorie potato…
Charlotte – The classic salad potato…

Delivered as 5 tubers each of Rocket, Vivaldi and Charlotte.
Code: 228357

Simple grow your own

Tuesday, January 19th, 2010

Seed saving hints to help in the credit crunch — grow your own.

You can grow press at home very simply. It brightens up salads can go on sandwiches and is very cheap and easy. You can buy Crest seeds at some supermarkets and all you have to do is planted on wet kitchen roll or tissue. Keep it down and within a couple of days it will sprout and develop little green leaves. It’s at this point when you harvest it by cutting with scissors. It’s very quick and easy and can really brightened up a door sandwich. You can grow salad in the same sort of way and you pick them as micro-leaves.

You can grow salad in grow bags outside on your patio once spring arrives. It is easy and quick also. The biggest problem you will have is stopping slugs from eating it, but you can do this by keeping it off the ground.

If you have a window box you can grow herbs. In fact if you have a windowsill you can grow basil very easily. Basil was to be grown in pots. You can buy pots of basil in the vegetable section at the supermarket. These can be kept alive some time with careful watering and even repotting. Chives bought the same place can also be repotted. These can be put in the garden where they will grow for years and years. Fruit bushes and trees make a good investment although somewhat more long-term than growing herbs. Once trees start through they will continue to fruit for many years. You can grow many fruits in your own garden including apple, pear, plum and damsons.

If you don’t have room for fruit tree then consider the wild fruit that is freely available along prowls and very quiet roads. You can find blackberries in the autumn and these delicious fresh water jam. There are also rosehips that you can use to make a syrup. You may also be lucky and find a hazelnut tree in the wild.

Growing Raspberries

Wednesday, January 13th, 2010
Raspberrys

Raspberries are easy to grow

Raspberries are easy to grow and are a must for every garden!

You can buy raspberry canes at Unwins – Raspberry Glen Ample Canes and Glen
Ample Canes are summer fruiting and Raspberry Joan J Canes is Autumn fruiting.

Raspberries could well be the easiest fruit to grow. The canes are vigorous
and will grown in most soils. They prefer sunshine though to get the fruit ripe
but can be grown against a south facing wall. They prefer a moist soil but are
happy enough in a dryer one if they’re watered during the growing season. They
like to be a neutral soil but will grow in a slightly acidic one better than
other plants. They can also cope well with a little shade as they naturally
grow in wooded areas.

They spread by throwing up shoots and producing new canes outside of where
you want them though. You can cut these off if you want tidy rows or leave them
to grow a little and then dig the new canes up and move them to a new area.
If you have a wild corner of the garden you can let them get on with it, but
be warned, an untidy raspberry patch is harder to pick fruit in.

Canes need cutting down in the autumn after fruiting has finished. This can
be late in the season and it’s not unusual for raspberry plants to still be
fruiting towards December although the lack of sunshine makes for a less delicious
berry.

Traditionally they are grown on a supported wire system with two posts holding
three wires at the bottom, middle and the top. The canes are then tied to this
to keep them neat and make it easier to pick the berries. Autumn fruiting berries
only need the bottom two wires. For a smaller garden don’t bother with this
row method. Plant them together around a sturdy stake or tree post.

A few weeks before planting dig in some well rotted manure of compost but reserve
some for mulching. They will benefit from a thick mulch as this will help retain
water in the soil.

Plant to the level they were grown at. Look for the dirt mark on the stem.
Spread the roots out carefully and fill in with soil. Make sure they’re planted
firmly.

Pruning time depends on the season they fruit. Prune the summer fruiting canes
during the autumn and clip them back as close to the ground as you can. You
should remove any canes in excess of 8 per plant. Leave the strongest canes.
Cut back any excessive growth in the winter so that they are not more than 15cm
taller than the top wire.

Prune autumn varieties when you clip back the tops of the summer fruiting ones.
Cut them again to ground level. Tie in canes as they grow to keep the rows neat.

Ensure they have fertilizer and water and they will reward you with a good
crop. You should learn how to make jam as this is a great way to preserve raspberries.
Pick regularly though else the fruit gets squishy and messy to pick.